Barkley Sound - Adventures in "Fogust" - Part III

Note:  Scroll down or use the index to the left for earlier posts in this trip log

I woke up to the deep rumbling sound of a large nearby diesel engine.  As I cleared the cobwebs I realized that the first of the commercial fishing boats was getting underway and leaving Port Renfrew.  It was dark.  I laid there for a while longer and soon I began to hear other smaller boats, from further away.  Soon Ge'Mara started to rock in the wake of the departing boats.  Salmon fishing season was underway.

David and I stumbled around the cabin rubbing sleep out of our eyes.  While he put some coffee on I went up top and took some pictures in the gathering dawn.  By the time I got back to the boat we were being buffeted against the dock by a steady succession of waves from the departing fishing boats.  It was only going to get worse.  We had another long day in store so with a nod we agreed to untie and bolt.

Dawn at Port Renfrew Community Dock

As we left the harbour I poured the coffee and looked back.  The little fishing boats just kept coming, all of them roaring at top speed toward whatever spot they had in mind, lest all the fish be caught before they got there.  The sun rose directly over Port Renfrew and I snapped a few more pics.  It was breathtaking.

Sunrise as we leave Port Refrew.  A few fishing boats were still coming out

Heading back into the fog

Once out in the ocean we went a little further away from the coast in an effort to avoid more of the fishing boats.  We had already disappeared back into the fog so it was hard to tell where they had all gone.  That as a little scary in itself.

That morning was pretty much just long and boring.  There was absolutely nothing to see in the dense fog but one of us needed to be watching intently at all times for logs, crab traps and other vessels.  Thankfully we only had one scare.  A small sport fishing boat came tearing out of the fog at full speed headed directly for us.  Upon seeing our lights he veered wildly to one side, passing to our starboard. He then slowed to a stop and sat dead in the water.  At first we thought he wanted to talk to us bus he made no move to come back around.  In hindsight he was probably tending to whatever havoc he caused to his passengers and materials by making such a harsh turn at full speed.  Or maybe he was just changing his underwear.  I didn't think to look to see if he had radar but if he didn't I can't understand why he would be traveling so fast in the fog.  This was a discussion that would be revisited several times with multiple people during our stay here.

We passed the time that morning by spelling each other off in one-hour increments.  We had been on the water for long enough now that we no longer made a pretense of keeping each other company.  It was just nice to go below and read a book with the heat on.

Continued motoring in the fog

Our first look at Cape Beale at the entrance to Barkley Sound

At around 2pm we were staring alternately at our chart plotters and off to starboard.  We knew by the GPS and by the sound of the waves, that we had made Cape Beale at the entrance to Barkley Sound.  We gave this point and it's treacherous rocks a wide berth and made a broad arc into the sound.  To our vast relief, as we headed further and further in the fog seemed to be lifting.  Before long we could make out nearby land on both sides of the boat and soon we could make out blue sky above the mist.  Eventually the sun emerged into full sunshine and to our amazement the water was a gorgeous turquoise colour.  The last time I had seen water that colour was in the Florida Keys.  I looked back towards the open ocean and all I could see was dense fog.  I was disappointed not to be able to look to the horizon and see nothing but ocean but turning around it was at least great to be in the sun.

Gradually improving visibility...

... Revealing amazing turquoise water

Our first order of business was to head into Bamfield to resupply on coffee and ice.  We turned into the narrow inlet just inside the sound and motored toward the community dock.

In the book "The Water in Between" Kevin Patterson tells of making landfall after a month at sea single handing his sailboat back from Hawaii.  He landed in Bamfield, I'm pretty sure at the same dock I was looking at that moment.  Our journey through the fog the last couple of days could not compare to his crossing of the Pacific but when I considered how good it felt to be here I had a new appreciation for the relief he must have felt.  I made a mental note to try yet again to connect with him on the way home.

The public dock at Bamfield

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Having restocked our ice we headed out of Bamfield in search of an anchorage.  We had planned to go first to Effingham Island but it was still shrouded in fog so we looked for an option deeper in the Sound where the sun was shining.  I had been reading our cruising guide and the author had mentioned a little marina located in in a narrow inlet between two islands called Robbers Passage.  This was the Port Alberni Yacht Club.  Given that Port Alberni was located miles inland from here it was tempting to think of this as an outstation but in fact this was the actual club.  The channel seemed a bit challenging for a sailboat but we decided to try it.

Robbers Passage, home of Port Alberni Yacht Club

We motored carefully into Robbers Passage and once inside saw the yacht club nestled inside a small bay.  There were a few boats near the main building but another long dock extended outwards and was completely empty.  We headed for it, not sure whether our information was up to date.  Presently a woman walked out onto the dock and waved.  "Welcome!" she smiled.

We tied up at the dock and chatted with our new host.  She confirmed that the club was indeed open for business and was not restricted to members.  She pointed out the amenities which were few, but saved the best for last.  "We've tapped into a very pure spring here on the island.  We have unlimited clean water.  Feel free to fill your tanks.  You can even have an unlimited length hot shower for only two bucks!"  She gestured at a small out-building at the end of the dock.

Her pride was understandable.  To traveling boaters, an ample supply of clean water to drink is highly prized.  And even very modern marinas typically charge a buck or two for only 3 minutes of hot water in the shower.  An unlimited hot shower for $2 was the mother lode.  We all stood around smiling.  She was happy to have some paying customers.  We were just happy to have reached our destination for the night with the prospect of a hot shower.

Port Alberni Yacht Club

The unlimited hot shower for $2.00

There was a small network of well-groomed trails on the island and our host gave us a pamphlet with a map.  It was evident we were to explore them.  David and I were thinking of hot showers and happy hour but we both needed exercise after an extended stay on the boat so we put on some shoes and tromped around the island for a half hour.  The trails were very well taken care of and led to the far side of the island to a beach.  For some reason I was thinking of how much my Dad might enjoy this.  Wherever he lived he liked to cut trails in the forest so he and his guests could stroll in the woods.  I imagined he would approve of the Port Alberni Yacht Club and their efforts.

A nice pic of Ge'Mara from up in the trails

On the far side of the island

The entrance to Robbers Passage

Back at the boat I grabbed a towel and walked up the dock for a wonderful hot shower.  Shortly after David and I were having happy hour and feeling very good about everything, the memory of dense fog and errant fishing boats fading into memory.